Відео

Study my source code and see if you can little by little piece together what to do. You'll have to port the code to the ESP8266. Have conversations with AIs such as Bing Chat / Microsoft Copilot, ChatGPT, GitHub Copilot, Google Gemini, etc, to help you as well.

​@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy Okay, thank you very much! I also use Arduino for programming, I'll try it

If it's burning gas, it has a vent, or flue, to the outdoors. This fireplace has that. Even my natural gas hot water heater in the garage has a flue to the outdoors. They have to, by law I believe. It's not big, maybe 3 or 4 inches in diameter, but it has one.

2:27 shows the dial has settings "OFF", "PILOT", and "ON". The dial should not be left in the Pilot setting. It should only be there for the few dozen seconds you are actively lighting the pilot light. Then, turn it to ON for all the cold months, and then do the shutdown procedure and switch it back to OFF for all the warm months. It should therefore be in ON perhaps 5 months straight per year, OFF perhaps 7 months straight per year, and in PILOT setting perhaps 1 minute straight per year while you are relighting the pilot light to go from OFF back to ON. The button only pushes to fire the igniter when in the PILOT setting. Otherwise, it locks and cannot be pushed in to spark the igniter.

See also my reply to the question here which says, "So is it safe to leave the pilot light on even if no one is home?" Link: ua-cam.com/video/lY8hNnjnRb0/v-deo.html&lc=UgxFdJr8M8l7ytYjJ3h4AaABAg.9x3NBNKmeM39x3SJFaWjs7

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy that is perfect. Now I'm very clear in the procedure. Thanks for your help.

Yes. It stays on continually 24/7 during all of the cold months where you may want to press the fire switch on the wall and turn on the fireplace. During power outages it still stays on, since the gas and the electricity are not on the same system. You should light it **once per year** in the Fall when you start using the heat, and turn it and the gas to it off **once per year** in the late Spring when you quit heating your home. During all those months after lighting it, the pilot light remains continually on regardless of whether or not anyone is home. If the house is completely unoccupied, however, of course turn it completely off.

The pilot light should be **on** when the fireplace switch is **off**. The pilot light is what lights your fire when you turn on the fireplace switch. You just want to turn it off in the summer is all because it heats your house a little otherwise, which is doing the opposite of your AC in the Summer. See my longer answer here, where I replied to @louiskwaku8879: ua-cam.com/video/lY8hNnjnRb0/v-deo.html&lc=UgzCkIPnGTAjCRdaqiR4AaABAg.9ZCnOEjxIIR9ZCpFBMe9ai

"...the gas line valve was already on [and] the pilot [light] was on on but the switch on the wall was off". That's the normal "standby" state of the fireplace for winter months. The pilot light can run indefinitely--forever. It's purpose is to light the big flame when you flip the switch on the wall to "on" to activate more gas flow and light the big fire. During Winter months, leave the pilot light (tiny flame) ON with the gas line ON. Then flip the wall switch to ignite the big flame whenever you need it. During Summer months, turn the gas line and pilot light completely off to quit generating that little bit of more heat which will heat your house while your AC is running. If the gas is on and the pilot light running, you won't smell gas because the pilot light is burning it all up. If you smell gas it means the gas is on but the pilot light blew out. That's dangerous. Any flame can produce some carbon monoxide if the combustion is incomplete. A nice blue flame indicates complete combustion. But again, the gas ON and the pilot light burning is the *normal* "standby" state for winter usage of any gas fireplace.

What to the red and blue paths mean? Again, see the screenshot from this video, and the associated description, in my detailed answer here: stackoverflow.com/a/72724753/4561887

What do you mean "no switch for the gas line"? And, what do you mean "just turn off the fireplace?" How will you "just turn it off"? If you mean: turn the pilot light off and the gas line off, as I show in the video, to totally turn off all gas to the fireplace, yes that is just fine.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy mine doesn’t have the red valve. I just turned the pilot light off. Is that okay?

@@Stephaniemua1 just make sure that if the pilot light (flame) is off, then the gas better be off too, one way or another, and if the gas is on, the pilot light (flame) better be on. You may have a gas valve somewhere else in the house to turn off. Without seeing your system, I can't be sure, and I don't install or maintain gas systems, so I don't know where else it would be in your house. Perhaps there is a separate valve in your kitchen, garage, or at a splitter where the gas comes into your home and splits off to different appliances.

Order of these two gas valves shouldn't matter in this case. Just make sure to turn both the pilot light knob to the OFF position AND the main gas valve to the OFF position is all. I don't think the order on this one matters. What does matter is to NOT blow the flame out first and then turn off the gas, as that would let some gas leak rather than being burned. Rather, turn the flame off BY turning off the gas. The pilot light knob is a gas valve apparently, and the main gas valve to the left of it on the gas pipe is just a more-upstream and more-secure gas valve. Turn them both OFF. Order doesn't matter.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy thanks for explaining that!

Yes, you can leave the pilot light on indefinitely. The already-burning pilot light is what lights the fire place when you press the wall switch to turn on the fireplace. That wall switch just increases the gas flow to the fireplace is all, creating the fire under the fake logs. The general practice is to turn ON the gas line valve and pilot light once in Fall or Winter when it starts to get cold, and to turn OFF the gas line valve and pilot light at the start of Spring or Summer when it starts to get hot. It burns continuously during that whole ON period of time. The pilot light produces a little heat all the time, so you do *not* want to leave it on if you're running your AC in the warm months, as that will just be counter-productive and you'll be paying both to run the pilot light and to cool the heat produced by the pilot light, which is a waste. Whatever you do, however, you MUST turn OFF the gas line valve when you turn off the pilot light. NEVER leave the gas line on with the pilot light off or you risk exploding your house into smithereens. There's probably a flue, however, to let gas fumes escape to the outside in order to minimize that risk if you did make that massive mistake.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy thank you

Thanks. Parts of CA get really cold, and parts not so much. This condo is in Northern California in the far East Bay in the San Francisco Bay area. Most people don't know, but due to the extreme low-pass-filter effects the San Francisco Bay and cold Pacific Ocean have on the temperatures of the region, combined with the surrounding foothills which act as climate barriers, there are actually 4 distinct and unique **climates** (not weather statuses, but **climates**) within a 50 mile radius around the San Francisco Bay Area. This condo is in what I call the 3rd climate out from the Bay/San Francisco. Summers in this 3rd climate out peak at about 110F High (but are typically <105 F) and Winters are regularly down to around 32 to 33 F Low. Going just a few dozen miles West to the San Francisco peninsula in the Presidio district (if this is what you are referring to), is 2 climates away and is in what I call the first, or inner-most climate. Summer highs are typically 80F (but even 65F is pretty common on a Summer day, so wearing a sweatshirt in the Summer in San Francisco is very common) and Winter lows maybe 50F or so. The climate changes due to the effects of the Bay and ocean are so extreme that I once did a trip to Point Reyes in the North Bay in the hottest part of the Summer, and it was 105 F at my house and 65 F at Point Reyes just 67 miles (as the crow flies) away, at the exact same time, with Point Reyes being farther North but in the middle of the ocean. Pretty crazy. The climate out there on Point Reyes was incredibly interesting. I felt like I was in a horror or suspense movie film set in Northern Ireland or maybe at a Viking settlement in Canada or something. It was foggy and cold and had very unique landscape, with cows, large elk, and tons of deer roaming around.

Anyway, so yeah, we used heaters. :) 33 F outside is cold enough you'll want one on. That little fireplace heated the entire lower floor pretty nicely for movie nights, and the blower made a huge difference and made it so much more effective.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy Lol, my brother loved to rub it in around winter time here. One summer he visited and said he needed to go buy a sweater, it was 78 degrees. I had to laugh. The kids here run around in shorts and t-shirts with 4" of snow on the ground. I should've taken my bro up on his offer to stay in Cali when I got out of the army, I was out-processing at Oakland on my way back to the north east after 4yrs on Oahu. His partner bought me a sweater at the airport, said here, your gonna need this lol, I forgot it was winter time back home. I couldn't believe it though, it actually snowed in Hawaii too on the highest volcano, the army had a firing range on the volcano. Oh wow, I had no idea the climate was so diverse in Cali, not to mention the abrupt change in scenery. My biggest memories were of the Golden Gate, Clint Eastwood's house and steep hill roads that would make any seasoned skateboarder cringe. My brother sent me a picture of his view from Palm Springs, I thought it was a joke at first, but it had a white cap mountain range. Point Reyes sounds like a nice place to visit for the view. Thank you again for the info and review :-) I just ordered the 14" version of the blower. I wanna milk my little bio-ethanol heater for all its worth. I like the look of a fresh snowfall, just not a big fan of the cold temps ;-) On the plus side it should slow down the spread of this damn virus.

Jeff, this happens at about 4:24 (start watching at 4:12), just after I plug in the 2nd-least-charged battery to the least-charged battery. The 3.3 A or so going into that 1.3Ah battery (3.3A / 1.3Ah = 2.5C charge current) is for such a short duration (a few seconds to a couple dozen seconds or so, with the current rapidly decreasing the whole time) that it is *not* a problem. However, if you charged at this higher current for a long period of time, yes, it could damage (or accelerate the wear and reduce the total number of charge cycles) of the battery. In other words, everything I've done here I consider safe, normal, good, and within reasonable limits.

If you have a Linux operating system, such as Ubuntu, email me your Amazon order number and I'll give you instructions. If you have a different type of computer, you may just have to request a refund, unfortunately, as the device may be dead. See my FAQ here: "I've been using the device happily for a month now, but suddenly it stopped working. What do I do?" github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues/5.

I need this so that my game does not understand that I am using the program. I don't want to get a lock

Good to see that you enjoy this!

They are controlled by separate pins on the Arduino. The horn has a built-in oscillator with a fixed frequency, so you just give it plain old DC power (via an amplifier or transistor still, of course) and it makes the horn sound since the internal oscillator enables the vibration to produce the sound. The speaker, however, I am driving with the Arduino pins through a crude transistor-based amplifier I made. You can just buy a robotics DC motor driver H-bridge to drive the speaker, and use the Arduino `toneAC` library (playground.arduino.cc/Code/ToneAC/). In theory, you could also play voice or true music out of the speaker with the Arduino too, using the Arduino `TMRpcm` library (github.com/TMRh20/TMRpcm), which is a really sophisticated means of doing PWM within a PWM: the outer PWM controls the rate at which you change the frequency, and does the frequency changes at that rate, and the inner PWM actually produces this frequency at the speaker. In this way, you can get true music, voice, or high-quality audio. Using this library you should still be able to drive the speaker directly with a DC motor driver H-bridge from a robotics shop online. Note that in my "PWM within a PWM" explanation, it is actually more correct to say that the "outer PWM" is really just an interrupt running at a high rate to call an ISR (Interrupt Service Routine function) to set the audio frequency, and the "inner PWM" is true PWM, but it's at a fixed 50% duty cycle with variable frequency (period) so as to be able to produce different tones. The "outer PWM" ISR then sets new frequencies of the inner PWM at a rapid rate, and voice, music, or true audio comes out of the speaker according to this data being played. It's absolutely ingenious what they've done with the Arduino: they've made it an audio driver all by itself, with just a robotics DC motor driver H bridge as the audio "amplifier".

Search this page (www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html) for the word "(DEFAULT)" to see all the default settings. It drags the mouse slowly to the bottom-left corner, and types 1 to 10 random characters every 1 to 10 seconds. Just plug it in. It's automatic. Yes, that's pretty annoying by default, especially for the people who want this as a mouse jiggler not a prank device, which is most people. :)

Sounds pretty extreme. You can add this auto-router easily to be used by KiCad. It's available as a 3rd-party package. It was removed from KiCad for fear of being sued by this guy's company (the guy who made the autorouter), who threatened to sue him for making the autorouter outside of his work. KiCad can't afford to be sued by this guy's asinine company. Just download the autorouter separately, then everybody wins! You get KiCad AND the autorouter, and KiCad doesn't get sued. See some of my notes under this video too. Also, keep in mind that KiCad is being developed mostly for FREE by the GENEROUS donations of VERY TALENTED developers and leaders who are doing this OUT OF THE GOODNESS OF THEIR HEARTS to benefit the world. I'm grateful these people exist. We need more people like them in the world. We also need fewer asinine companies threatening to sue their employees for making useful things outside of their work, on their own time, in their homes.

It should. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't. If it doesn't for some reason, you can always return it.

Use Mouse Move Mode 1 (randomMouseJumpAround) and 2 (randomMouseBuzzAround) to get random movement. See all modes here: www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html. As for making it active continually for 15 to 30 minutes, then off for 7-10, then on again, I *could* do that so long as I remove other features too, as the device is 100% full, but currently the product does not support that feature.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy Can you program it like you said removing unwanted features like drawing on the screen ? I'm interested in random, pause, random features mostly. And be able to program these intervals and randomness of movement.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy i sent you an email.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy Ordered Arduino Leonardo from Amazon today, downloaded Arduino development software tool and i'm going to program my own. Glad I did not purchase your little device. Cheerz.

@@youtub3ian728 I love the Arduino Leonardo! I think that's great. Here's a mouse move function you're going to need ( www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/usb/mouse/mousemove/ ), and I don't know what your level of coding experience is, but Blink ( www.arduino.cc/en/tutorial/blink ) and Blink without Delay ( www.arduino.cc/en/tutorial/BlinkWithoutDelay ) are two extremely helpful getting-started tutorials for Arduino in general. Lastly, I've compiled a bunch of useful Arduino programming resources at the bottom of my article here: www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html. Arduino is a powerful tool and I'm sure you'll gain some very valuable experience with it and learn some great new skills to benefit the world.

It just fell off in one of the first battles is all, if I remember correctly.

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy it was off during the SOW fight, but was still in the arena

@@ElectricRCAircraftGuy do you think the traffic cone battle bot would have been able to defeat every bot?

it was castrated to prevent it from mating with the other bots